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q PRACTICAL ITALIAN 

RECIPES 

FOR AMERICAN 
KITCHENS 



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PRACTICAL ITALIAN 

RECIPES 

FOR AMERICAN KITCHENS 




SOLD TO AID THE FAMILIES 
OF ITALIAN SOLDIERS 



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COPYRIGHTED, 1917 



JAN -2 !9i8 




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FOREWORD 

N this world war we are learning many lessons from 
our Allies beside those of the battle field. The 
housewives of the old world have much to teach us 
in thrift, especially in the kitchen. Italian cook- 
ing — not that of the large hotel or restaurant, 
but the cucina casalinga of the little roadside hos- 
telry and of the home where the mother, or some deft hand- 
maid trained in the art from infancy, is priestess at the tiny 
charcoal stove — is at once so frugal and so delicious that we 
do well to study it with close attention. 

If you have ever sat at a snowy table in the garden of 
some wayside inn in the Appennines, a savory dish of risotto 
before you and the music of the mountain torrent far below 
in your ears ; or sipped a zabaione in the portico of a cafe on 
the sun-baked piazza of some brown old town clinging to a 
hillside of Umbria ; or eaten fritto misto on a pensione ter- 
race overhanging the sapphire Gulf of Naples, one of those 
inimitable haunts of comfort kept by a handsome Italian 
dame who served her apprenticeship in Anglo-Saxon ways as 
an English lady's maid ; if any of these experiences have 
been yours you do not need to be convinced of the inimitable 
charms of the Italian cuisine. 

The Italian housewife uses quantities of vegetables, 
many soups and made dishes containing only a small propor- 
tion of meat and that the inexpensive cuts. Vegetable salads 
are a staple, while fresh or dried fruits, coffee, cheese and 
nuts are the regular dessert. The elaborate creations for 
which the Italian confectioner is justly famous are reserved 
for festal occasions. 

At first reading many of the recipes may sound elaborate, 
but in using them it is well to bear in mind the general plan 
of the Italian menu. Each dish is usually served as a course 
in itself. A good soup, a savory dish of spaghetti, rice or 
vegetables combined with meat, a crisp salad dressed with oil 

3 



and vinegar, followed by a piece of fruit, a bit of cheese and 
black coffee make a characteristic Italian mjeal and one with 
which an epicure could find no fault. It is a meal, moreover, 
in keeping with the suggestions of our Food Administrator 
that we use a minimum of meats and sweets and a maximum 
of soups, fruits, vegetables, made dishes and cheese. 

This little venture is launched in the hope that the book- 
let may pay its way in new suggestions to American home- 
makers while it is earning money to prevent Italian homes 
from being destroyed. The expenses incident to publication 
have been contributed, so that every penny from the sale of 
every copy is forwarded direct to responsible people in Italy 
who will use it for food and clothing for the families of Ital- 
ian soldiers. 

Additional copies may be had at fifty cents apiece, from 
Julia Lovejoy Cuniberti, 14 West Milwaukee street, Janes- 
ville, Wisconsin. 



SUGGESTIONS 

TOMATO PASTE. This is a concentrated paste made 
from tomatoes and spices to be had of importers or grocers in 
Italian neighborhoods. Thinned with water, it is a much 
used ingredient in Italian recipes. Catsup and concentrated 
tomato soup do not make satisfactory substitutes as they are 
too sweet in flavor, but canned tomatoes seasoned with salt 
and a bit of bay leaf, cooked down to a thick cream and 
rubbed through a sieve, serve very well in lieu of tomato 
paste, 

PARMESAN CHEESE. When an Italian recipe calls 
for grated cheese it usually means Parmesan. This is prac- 
tically unobtainable now, except the grated, bottled cheese, 
which is inferior in flavor. Gruyere, our own brick cheese, 
or any skim milk cheese dried and grated fresh as needed 
makes a good substitute, 

DRIED MUSHROOMS. These may be had of import- 
ers or small groceries in foreign neighborhoods. They sound 
expensive until one realizes that a very few ounces go a long 
way. They make a pleasing variety added to soups or sauces, 
and are much cheaper and more highly flavored than the 
canned mushrooms. They should be thoroughly washed and 
softened in v/arm water before using. 

ANCHOVIES. These recipes do not call for the filets 
of anchovy prepared for hors-d'oeuvres, but the less expens- 
ive and larger whole anchovies in salt to be had in bulk or 
cans at large dealers. To clean them plunge in boiling wa- 
ter. This loosens the skin and removes superfluous salt. Re- 
move head, tail, backbone and skin and they are ready for 
use. 

GARLIC. Garlic is an inoffensive and wholesome in- 

5 



gredient if properly handled. Used in small quantities and 
thoroughly cooked it gives an indescribable flavor that is 
never disagreeable. By "a clove of garlic" is meant one of 
the tiny sections of a whole garlic peeled down to its white, 
fleshy core. 

SUBSTITUTION OF OTHER INGREDIENTS. 
Many of the recipes which have been written down just as 
they were given can be made more economical and no less 
delicious by the substitution of clarified drippings, vegeta- 
ble shortenings and corn or nut oils for salt pork, butter or 
bacon. Corn-starch is recommended for thickening instead 
of flour. Anyone v/ho does not care for as much cheese or 
tomato as the Italian likes, may omit them entirely or great- 
ly reduce the quantity in most of the recipes and still have 
an excellent dish. 



BROWN STOCK 
Sugo di Carne 

1 lb. beef from some tough but juicy cut 
A small piece of salt pork A carrot 
A large onion 2 cloves 

A stalk of celery Salt, pepper 

2 tablespoons butter 

Chop the pork and put it in the bottom of a saucepan. 
Next add the onion, celery and carrot chopped. Dot with 
butter and over this place the meat cut into small pieces. 
Add any trimmings from steaks, roasts or chops that may be 
on hand and any bits of left over cooked meat. Season with 
salt and the cloves. Put over the fire without stirring. 
When you smell the onions getting very brown turn the 
meat and when everything is extremely brown add a cup of 
water and let it cook almost dry. Repeat this operation of 
adding the water three times. Finally add three pints of 
boiling water and let it boil gently five or six hours, when 
the stock will be reduced to a few cupfuls. Strain, cool and 
skim off the fat which will form a cake on top of the liquid. 

The meat may afterwards be used for a Flam, for Pol- 
pettone or croquettes. The stock may be kept for some days 
and forms the basis for many dishes. In soups it is far su- 
perior to beef extract or bouillon cubes which may be substi- 
tuted for it. 



VEGETABLE CHOWDER 
Minestrone alia Milanese 

y^ lb. salt pork 2 quarts cold water 

2 or 3 sprigs parsley A little celery 

1 kernel garlic Any left over peas 

2 carrots 1 tablespoon butter 
34 medium sized cabbage Rice, salt and pepper 

1 scant cup dried beans, Lima or kidney, soaked over night 

Cut off the rind of the pork and put it into 2 quarts of 
water to boil. Cut off a small slice of the pork and beat it to 
a paste with the parsley and garlic. Add this paste to the 
pork and water. Slice the carrots, cut the rib out of the cab- 



bage leaves. Add the carrots, cabbage leaves, other vegeta- 
bles, seasoning and butter to the soup, and let it boil slowly 
for 2y2 hours. The last ^ hour add 1 small handful of rice 
for each person. 

When the pork is very soft, remove and slice in little 
ribbons and put it back. 

This is equally good eaten cold. Three bouillon cubes 
may be used instead of pork, or may be added if a richer 
soup is desired. 

Mme. Varesi. 



FRENCH ONION SOUP 
Minestra di Cipolla alia Francese 
4 large onions 

4 tablespoons of vegetable oil or meat drippings 
% lb. Swiss or American brick cheese, grated 
1 quart to 3 pints soup stock or boiling water 
4 slices of stale bread toasted, salt, pepper 

Peel the onions and slice them very thin. Fry them 
slowly in the fat until they are a uniform! golden brown, us- 
ing a kettle deep enough to hold the water afterwards. 
When the onions are thoroughly fried add the hot water, 
cover and let simmer at least three-quarters of an hour, sea- 
soning to taste. The onions will make a clean brown liquor 
without the use of any meat but soup stock may be used in- 
stead of water, or beef extract or bouillon cubes may be add- 
ed to the water if a meat soup is preferred. 

Put the soup in a hot tureen, add the toast cut into tri- 
angles and sprinkle it over with the grated cheese. Serve as 
soon as the toast and cheese have been added. 



PARADISE SOUP 
Minestra del Paradiso 

4 tablespoons sifted bread crumbs 3 eggs 

4 tablespoons grated cheese Nutmeg 

1 quart white soup stock or clear broth Salt, pepper 

Beat the whites of the eggs, then beat in the yolks. Add 

8 



the breadcrumbs gradually, then the grated cheese, a pinch 
of salt and a grating of nutmeg. These ingredients should 
form a thin batter. 

Have the broth boiling and drop the batter into it by 
spoonfuls. Let it boil three or four minutes and serve im- 
mediately. The batter will poach in soft, curdled lumps in 
the clear soup. 

This soup is much used as a delicacy for invalids. In 
this case the cheese may be scanted or omitted entirely. By 
way of variety a tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley 
may be added to the batter, or a half a cup of spinach drained 
and rubbed through a sieve may be substituted for half of 
the breadcrumbs. 

When stock or broth is not available, it may be made 
from bouillon cubes and a lump of butter dissolved in boil- 
ing water and seasoned with celery salt, onion salt and pep- 
per. 

Signora Maria Ronchi-Cuniherti. 



PEA SOUP 
Zuppa di Piselli 

1 pint peas; fresh peas, canned peas or dried peas soaked 

over night 2 oz. ham, fat and lean 

2 tablespoons oil or butter substitute 

1 small onion A piece of celery 

1 small carrot A bay leaf 

A sprig of parsley Salt, pepper 

Chop fine or put through a meat grinder the ham, onion, 
carrot and celery, add the parsley chopped or clipped fine 
with scissors, and the bay leaf. Fry all this in the oil until 
it is golden brown, but not at all scorched. Add one pint of 
boiling water and the peas. If this cooks away add more wa- 
ter as needed until the peas are tender. Rub the soup 
through a sieve. Serve this soup garnished with croutons or 
toast triangles, and send a dish of grated cheese to the table 
with it to be added according to individual taste. 

9 



BEAN SOUP 
Zuppa di Fagiuoli 

1 cup dried beans, Kidney, Navy or Lima 

^ cup oil 1 sprig of parsley 

% onion 1 piece of celery 

1 clove of garlic 1 cup canned tomatoes 

Soak the beans over night. Boil until tender. Many 
cooks put the beans to cook in cold water with a pinch of 
soda. When they come to a boil, pour off this water and add 
fresh. 

Chop fine the onion, garlic, parsley and celery and put 
them to fry in the oil with salt and a generous amount of pep- 
per. When the vegetables are a delicate brown add to them 
two cups of the broth from the beans, and the tomatoes. Let 
all come to a boil and pour the mixture into the kettle of 
beans from which some of the water has been drained, if they 
are very liquid. This soup may be served as it is or rubbed 
through a sieve before serving. Croutons or triangles of dry 
toast make an excellent addition. 



QUEEN'S SOUP 
Zuppa Regina 

1 cup cooked chicken 5 or 6 blanched almonds 

^ cup bread crumbs 1 quart chicken stock 

14 cup milk 1 slice stale bread 

Yolk of 1 egg, if desired Fat for deep frying 

Grind the meat and almonds in a meat grinder, or chop 
very fine. Soak the bread crumbs in the milk, and rub all 
these ingredients to a very smooth paste. Add the hot broth. 
If you wish the soup to be richer and have a more milky con- 
sistency use the yolk of an egg, which should be beaten and 
have a few tablespoons of the hot broth stirred into it before 
adding to the soup. Do not let the soup boil after the egg is 
added or it will curdle. 

Cut the stale bread into cubes and fry in deep fat. Put 
these croutons in the soup, and send it to the table with a 
dish of grated cheese. 

10 



VEGETABLE SOUP 
Zuppa Saute 

Many kinds of vegetables may be used for this soup, car- 
rots, celery, cabbage, turnips, onions, potatoes, spinach, the 
outside leaves of lettuce or greens of any variety. 

Select three or four kinds of vegetables. Shred or chop 
coarsely cabbage or greens, and slice or cut in cubes the root 
vegetables. Put them over the fire with a small quantity of 
cooking oil or butter substitute, and let them fry until they 
have absorbed the fat. Then add broth and cook until the 
vegetables are very tender. Fry croutons of stale bread in 
oil and serve them in the soup. 

In this, as in other recipes, water may be used instead of 
broth if the latter is not available, and bouillon cubes or beef 
extract added just as the hot soup is removed from the fire. 



SOUP WITH LITTLE HATS 
Cappelletti all' uso di Romagna 

Equal parts curds or cottage cheese and cooked meat (chick- 
en, pork or veal) 
Grated cheese Grated lemon peel 

1 egg Nutmeg, allspice, salt 

Grind the meat very fine and make a highly seasoned 
mixture of it and all the other ingredients. The ground meat 
may be sauted in a little butter or drippings before it is 
mixed with the other ingredients to improve the flavor. Cut 
rounds measuring about three inches in diameter from a 
thin sheet of paste made according to the recipe on page 20. 
Place a spoonful of the filling in the middle of each circle of 
paste. Fold over and moisten the edge of the paste with the 
finger dipped in water to make it stay securely closed. These 
cappelletti should be cooked in chicken or turkey broth un- 
til the paste is tender, and served with this broth as a soup. 

This is a time-honored Christmas dainty in Italy. 



11 



MILANESE RICE 
Risotto alia Milanese I 

1 lb. rice Salt 

A medium sized onion Curry powder, ^2 teaspoon 

4 tablespoons butter, or oil Grated cheese 

Chop the onion very fine, or put it through a meat grind- 
er. Put it to cook in the butter, until it is soft and yellow. 
Wash the rice and add it to the onion and butter, stirring 
constantly so that it will not stick. Salt it and add boiling 
water, a little at a time, until the rice is cooked tender, yet 
not too soft, with each grain distinct. Dissolve the curry 
powder in a tablespoon of cold water and add to the rice. 
Take from the fire and serve very hot after mixing into it a 
handful of grated cheese. The delicacy of this dish is lost 
if it is overcooked or allowed to cool. 

Signorina Irene Merlani. 



RICE WITH CHICKEN GIBLETS 
Risotto alia Milanese II 

1 lb. rice Chicken broth 

The giblets of a chicken Onion 

Cooking oil or chicken fat Grated cheese 

1 Ggg Salt and pepj,er 

The broth for this Risotto may be made by cooking to- 
gether the giblets, neck and tips of wings of a chicken which 
is to be roasted, or it may be made from the remnants of 
roast fowl. 

Boil the rice until it is about half done in salted water. 
Then let the water cook away and begin adding the broth, in 
such quantity that the rice will be nearly dry when it is ten- 
der. Fry the chopped onion in the oil or fat. Some mush- 
rooms cut up small are a very good addition to this "soffrit- 
to." Mince the chicken giblets and add to the onion. Stir 
this m.ixture into the rice. Add grated cheese and a beaten 
^gg just as the rice is taken from the fire. 

12 



RICE AND PEAS 
Risotto coi Piselli 
1 cup rice % onion 

1 tablespoon oil Grated cheese 

1 tablespoon butter A small can of peas 

Clean the rice. Chop the onion fine and fry it a golden 
color in the oil. Put in the rice and stir it until it has ab- 
sorbed all the oil. Salt and add boiling water. Boil until 
the rice is tender, taking care to keep plenty of water on it 
until the very end when it should cook almost dry. Drain 
the peas and add them toward the end of the cooking. Grated 
cheese is a good addition to this dish. 



STRING BEANS WITH EGG SAUCE 
Fagiuolini in Salsa d'Uovo 
1 lb. green or wax beans 1 teaspoon cornstarch or flour 

Butter, salt and pepper Juice of ^ lemon 

Yolk of 1 egg % cup soup stock 

String the beans and parboil them in salted, boiling wa- 
ter. Drain, cut up into inch pieces and season with butter, 
salt and pepper. Beat the egg yolk in a sauce pan. Beat in 
the flour and lemon juice, add the stock (cold water will do) 
and cook the mixture over a moderate fire until it thickens. 
Pour over the hot beans and let remain over the fire a mo- 
ment so that they will absorb the flavor of the sauce but not 
long enough to curdle the egg. 



FRIED CELERY 
Sedano Fritto 
Cut the outside stalks of celery into pieces 3 to 4 inches 
long, and strip off the coarsest fibres. Cook in water until 
soft and transparent. Drain in colander. When it is as dry 
as possible roll each piece separately in flour, and saute sepa- 
rately, not in a mass, in butter, vegetable oil or drippings, 
with salt and pepper. Each piece must be turned to cook on 
both sides. 

Swiss chard may be cooked in the same way. 

Mme. Varesi. 

13 



BOILED CELERY 
Sedano per Contorno 

Cook the outside stalks of celery, cut into small pieces, 
in boiling salted water for 5 minutes. Drain and saute in a 
very little butter. Add a few tablespoons of brown stock 
and simmer until tender. Sprinkle with grated cheese if de- 
sired, before serving. 



BOILED CAULIFLOWER 
CavolBore in Umido 
A small strip of salt pork Tomato paste* 
14 onion Salt, pepper, allspice 

1 tablespoon butter or oil A little sausage meat 
A large cauliflower Grated cheese 

Chop fine the onion and salt pork, and brown together, 
adding the butter and spices. Add enough tomato paste and 
boiling water to moisten the mixture thoroughly, and let it 
boil a few minutes. Then add the finely chopped sausage 
and more water as necessary to keep it boiling. 

Wash and quarter the cauliflower and cook it for ten 
minutes in boiling, slightly salted water. Drain it and add 
it to the sauce, and simmer slowly until tender. Be careful 
not to cook it so long that it gets mushy. Grated cheese may 
be sprinkled over it before serving. 

Cabbage may be cooked in the same way. 



Signorina Irene Merlani. 



*See Suggestions, page 5. 



VEGETABLES ALLA NAPOLITANA 
Giambotto alia Napolitana 
^ onion Two or three green peppers 

An eggplant One or two potatoes 

A few tablespoons oil Salt, pepper 

Fresh or canned tomatoes Zucchini 

Zucchini are a kind of small squash for sale in groceries 
and markets of the Italian neighborhoods of our large cities. 

14 



Summer or winter squash, ripe cucumber or even pumpkin 
make good substitutes. 

Chop the onion and fry in oil. The other vegetables 
should be in proportion to each other. For example, if there 
is a cupful of each of the other vegetables when they are cut 
up, use a cupful of tomatoes unless you wish the tomato 
flavor to be very pronounced. Peel and cube the potatoes, 
eggplant and squash. Remove the seeds and stems from the 
peppers and slice or shred them coarsely. Add the tomatoes 
to the onion and oil. After that has cooked a few minutes 
add the potatoes. When they are half done, put in the pep- 
pers, lastly the eggplant, squash, and salt and pepper. Con- 
tinue cooking until the vegetables are tender but still whole 
and Arm. 

Roma Pavilion Restaurant, Chicago. 



EGGPLANT WITH TOMATO SAUCE 
Melanzana in Umido 

Peel and cut up the eggplant. Salt it and let it stand 
for an hour or so to draw out the bitter juices. Drain and 
saute in a little oil or drippings. Add tomato sauce* and 
simmer a few moments until tender. 

*See page 23. 



BAKED EGGPLANT WITH CHEESE 
Tortino di Melanzana alia Parmigiana 

The eggplant should be prepared as for ordinary frying, 
that is, it should be peeled, sliced and the slices sprinkled 
with salt and left under a weighted plate for some time to 
extract the bitter juices. Saute the slices in oil or lard. Line 
a baking dish with them. Fill the center of the dish with 
hard boiled eggs and cheese cut into little pieces. Add to 
this filling enough grated cheese and tomato sauce to flavor 
it to taste. Cover the top with another layer of the fried 
eggplant and a little more tomato sauce. Bake in the oven 
for 10 minutes. 

Roma Pavilion Restaurant, Chicago. 

15 



POTATOES "STUFATO" 
Stufato di Patate 

2 lbs. potatoes 1 pint milk 

1 tablespoon flour Grated cheese 

4 tablespoons butter Salt, pepper 

Peel the potatoes and cut them into little pieces. Cook in 
boiling water for ten minutes. Take them out, drain thor- 
oughly, and put in a saucepan, sprinkling them with flour, 
then adding the butter and milk. Cover the pan and let the 
potatoes cook slowly for a quarter of an hour or until thor- 
oughly done. Season well with salt and pepper and a gener- 
ous amount of grated cheese before serving. 

Signorina Irene Merlani. 



MOULD OF PEAS OR BEANS 
Sformato di Fagiuolini o Piselli 

1 lb. green or wax beans 1 tablespoon flour 
54 onion 1 cup milk 

A sprig of parsley 3 eggs 

A piece of celery Grated cheese 

2 tablespoons oil or butter substitute 

String the beans. Blanch them by throwing them into 
boiling water. As soon as the water has boiled again drain 
the beans and plunge them into cold water. Fry the finely 
chopped onion, parsley and celery in a tablespoon of oil. 
When the onion is a golden color add the beans and let them 
absorb the oil. Add just enough water to keep them from 
burning until the beans have simmered tender. 

Make a white sauce of the milk, flour and one tablespoon 
of oil. Beat the eggs. Let the beans and sauce cool a little. 
Then add the eggs, beans and a few tablespoons of grated 
cheese to the white sauce. Pour into a buttered mould. Bake 
or steam as a custard until firm, and serve hot. 

Peas are good cooked in the same way. Canned peas 
and beans may be used. This makes a very satisfactory 
luncheon dish. 

16 



MOULD OF SPINACH 
Stampa di Spinaci 

1 cup milk 2 cups boiled spinach ^SS^ 

1 tablespoon butter 3 eggs 

1 tablespoon flour Brown stock 

Grated cheese Salt, pepper 

Make a smooth white sauce of the milk, butter and flour. 
Let it cook until it is thick and the flour is thoroughly 
cooked. Add to the sauce the spinach (drained, rinsed and 
chopped very fine) a few tablespoons of grated cheese, two 
eggs beaten, a few tablespoons of brown stock (or a bouillon 
cube dissolved in a little hot water) and salt. Mix thorough- 
ly and pour into a buttered mould. Steam as a custard until 
it is firm. Brown stock or tomato sauce may be poured over 
this, but it is excellent served hot just as it is. For the recipes 
for Brown Stock and Tomato Sauce see pages 7 and 23. 

Pensione Santa Caterina, Siena. 



EGGS ALL' AURORA 

1 tablespoon butter or vegetable oil 

1 cup milk 3 eggs 

1 tablespoon flour Salt and pepper 

Hard boil the eggs. Make a white sauce of the flour, 
milk and butter. Be sure to cook it thoroughly. Add the 
whites of the eggs diced very fine. Pour this out on a plat- 
ter and cover with the yolks forced through a sieve or potato 
ricer. 

Pensione Santa Caterina, Siena. 



TOMATOES WITH EGGS 

5 or 6 ripe tomatoes of equal size 

5 or 6 eggs White sauce or brown gravy 

Peel the tomatoes. Cut a slice from the top of each, and 
scoop out the core. Break a raw egg into each and replace 
the top. Put in a baking dish and bake until the eggs are 
set. Serve with a cream sauce or brown gravy. 

17 



CORN MEAL LOAF 
Pasticcio di Polenta 

Yellow cornmeal Butter 

Dried mushrooms* Cream 

Parmesan cheese* Salt 

The day before this dish is to be served, cook cornmeal 
very thoroughly with only enough water to make it very 
stiff. Turn out to cool in just the shape of the dish in which 
it has cooked. 

Next day take this same dish, butter it and sprinkle with 
bread crumbs. Cut the mould of cornmeal in horizontal 
slices about ^ inch thick. Lay the top slice in the bottom 
of the dish where it fits. Dot with two or three small pieces 
of butter and three or four dried mushrooms which have 
had boiling water poured over them and soaked some time. 
Moisten with cream and sprinkle with grated Parmesan 
cheese. Repeat slice by slice until the shape is complete. 
On the last slice put only two dots of butter. 

Put in a moderate oven and bake three hours. If at the 
end of this time there should be too much liquid on top pour 
this off to use for the seasoning of some other dish, such as 
spaghetti, rice or noodles, and continue cooking until the 
liquid ceases to ooze. 

*See Suggestions, page 5. 



POLENTA PIE 
Polenta Pasticciata 

1 cup 3'^ellow corn meal Grated cheese 

1 cup milk Bolognese Sauce* 

1 tablespoon cornstarch Salt 

1 tablespoon cooking oil or butter 

Make a very stiff mush of the cornmeal. Salt it well and 
when it is cooked spread it out to cool on a bread board in a 
sheet about an inch thick. Make a smooth white sauce of the 
milk, cornstarch and butter. Prepare the Bolognese Sauce 
according to its recipe. When the cornmeal is cold slice it 
down in half inch slices and cut into diamonds or squares. 

18 



Butter a baking dish. Put in a layer of the cornmeal, sprinkle 
it with cheese and a few tablespoons each of the white sauce 

and the meat sauce. Repeat until the dish is full. Bake Spas- 

until the top is nicely browned. This seems like an elabor- Jictti 

ate dish, but it is very delicious and a meal in itself. and 

*See page 23. Q^f^^J. 

Pastes 



GNOCCHI OF FARINA OR CORNMEAL 
Gnocchi alia Romana 

1 pint of milk, or half milk and half water 
y^ cup farina or cornmeal 1 egg 
Butter and grated cheese Salt 

Let the milk come to a boil, salt it and add the farina 
gradually, stirring constantly so it will not become lumpy. 
Take from the fire and add a tablespoon of butter and sev- 
eral tablespoons of grated cheese, also the egg slightly beat- 
en. Mix well and spread out on a moulding board in a sheet 
about 3/^ inch thick. When it is cold cut it in squares or 
diamonds. Put a layer of these on a shallow baking dish or 
platter that has been buttered. Sprinkle with cheese and dot 
with butter. Make another layer and so on until the dish is 
filled. Bake in the oven until the crust is well browned. 



SPAGHETTI WITH ANCHOVIES 

34 lb. spaghetti Olive oil 

5 medium sized anchovies* Canned tomatoes 

Put the anchovies into a colander and dip quickly into 
boiling water to loosen the skins, and remove the salt. Skin 
and bone them. Chop them and put over the fire in a sauce- 
pan with a generous quantity of oil and some pepper. Do 
not let them boil, but when they are hot add two tablespoons 
of butter and three or four tablespoons of concentrated to- 
mato juice made by cooking down canned tomatoes and rub- 
bing through a sieve. Boil the spaghetti in water that is 
only slightly salted and take care not to let it become too 
soft. Drain thoroughly and put it into the hot dish in which 
it is to be served. Pour the sauce over the spaghetti, and if 

19 



you have left the latter unbroken in the Italian style mix by 
lifting the spaghetti with two silver forks until sauce has 
gone all through it. Serve with grated cheese. 
*See Suggestions, page 5. 



SPAGHETTI ALLA NAPOLITANA 

^ lb. round steak A clove of garlic 

^ lb. salt pork or bacon Several sprigs parsley 

1 small onion Fresh or canned tomatoes 

1 tablespoon butter or substitute 

A few dried mushrooms, if desired 

Grind the salt pork and try it out in a saucepan. While 
it is frying put the onion through the grinder. As soon as 
the pork begins to brown add the onion, the parsley chopped, 
the garlic shredded fine, and the mushrooms which have 
been softened by soaking in warm water. When the vegeta- 
bles are very brown (great care must be taken not to burn 
the onion, which scorches very easily) add the meat ground 
coarsely or cut up in little cubes. When the meat is a good 
brown color, add about one pint of tomatoes and simmer 
slowly until all has cooked down to a thick creamy sauce. It 
will probably take ^ hour. The sauce may be bound to- 
gether with a little flour if it shows a tendency to separate. 

This sauce is used to dress all kinds of macaroni and 
spaghetti, also for boiled rice. Spaghetti should be left un- 
broken when it is cooked. If it is too long to fit in the kettle 
immerse one end in the boiling salted water and in a very few 
minutes the ends of the spaghetti under the water will be- 
come softened so that the rest can be pushed down into the 
kettle. Be careful not to overcook it and it will not be pasty, 
but firm and tender. Drain it carefully and put in a hot soup 
tureen. Sprinkle a handful of grated cheese over it and pour 
on the sauce. Lift with two forks until thoroughly mixed. 



NOODLES OR HOME MADE PASTE 
Tagliatelli o Pasta Fatta in Casa 
The best and most tender paste is made simply of eggs 
and flour and salt. Water may be substituted for part of the 

20 



eggs, for economy, or when a less rich paste is needed. Allow 
about a cup of flour to an egg. Put the flour on a bread board, 
make a hole in the middle and break in the egg. Use any ex- 
tra whites that are on hand. Work it with a fork until it is 
firm enough to work with the hands. Knead it thoroughly, 
adding more flour if necessary, until you have a paste you can 
roll out. Roll it as thin as a ten cent piece. If the sheet of 
paste is too large to handle with an ordinary rolling pin, a 
broom handle which has been sawed off, scrubbed and sand- 
papered, will serve in lieu of the long Italian rolling pin. 

This paste may be cut in ribbons to be cooked in soup as 
Tagliatelli, or cut in squares or circles and filled with various 
mixtures to make Cappelletti, Ravioli, etc. 

Any bits that are left or become too dry to work may be 
made into a ball and kept for some time to be grated into soup, 
in which it makes an excellent thickening. 



RAVIOLI 

^2 lb. curds or soft cottage cheese Nutmeg 

y^ cup cooked spinach or beet greens Salt 

i egg Grated cheese 

Drain and chop the gieens. Mix well with the 
curds, egg, a little grated cheese, salt and nutmeg. Make a 
paste such as that described in the recipe for Pasta fatta in 
Casa, page 20. Roll out this paste very thin and mark it off in 
two or three inch squares. Place a spoonful of the mixture on 
each square. Fold together diagonally. Moisten the edges 
with the finger dipped in cold water, to make them stick to- 
gether, and press them down with the fingers or the tines of a 
fork. Another method is to put the spoonfuls of the mixture 
in a row two inches from the edge of the paste and two inches 
apart. Fold over the edge of the paste. Cut off the whole 
strip thus formed, and cut into squares with the mixture in 
the middle of each square. 

Boil these ravioli in salted water, being careful not to 
break them open. Drain and serve with a tomato sauce con- 
taining mushrooms*, either fresh ones, or the dried mush- 
rooms soaked and simmered until tender. Arrange the ravioli 

21 



on a platter, pour the hot sauce over them and finish with a 
sprinkling of grated cheese. 

*See page 23. 



RAVIOLI WITH MEAT 
Ravioli alia Genovese 

1 cup cooked meat, veal, chicken, turkey or giblets 

1 small slice cooked ham 1 egg 

14 cup spinach Grated cheese, nutmeg, salt 

Chop the meat and spinach fine and work to a stiff mix- 
ture with the egg. Season with cheese, nutmeg and salt to 
taste. Enclose in little squares of the home made paste de- 
scribed above, and cook and serve as in the preceding recipe 
for Ravioli. 



NOODLES WITH HAM 
Tagliatelle col Presciutto 

Noodles Carrot 

A slice of ham, fat & lean Celery 
Oil or butter Tomato paste* 

Cut the ham into little pieces. Chop carrot and celery to 
equal the ham in quantity. Put them all on the fire with some 
butter. When the mixture is brown add a few tablespoons of 
tomato paste dissolved in a cup of hot water. 

Cook the noodles in water that is only slightly salted. 
Drain and dress with the sauce and grated cheese. The quan- 
tities to use in the sauce must be determined by the amount of 
noodles to be cooked. 

*See Suggestions, page 5. 



22 



BOLOGNESE SAUCE FOR MACARONI 
Maccheroni alia Bolognese 
Y/^ lb. raw round steak 1 small carrot bauces 

A slice of salt pork or bacon (2 oz.) ^ onion 
1 tablespoon butter or substitute 1 large piece celery 

1 pint hot water or broth I/2 tablespoon flour 

Pepper, nutmeg if desired 

Chop the meat and vegetables fine and put them over the 
fire with the butter. When the meat has browned add the 
flour and wet the mixture with hot water or broth, allowing 
it to simmer from half an hour to an hour. It is done when 
it is the consistency of a thick gravy. 

This is enough sauce for 1 lb. of macaroni or spaghetti. 
Dried mushrooms are a good addition to this sauce. They 
may be soaked, drained and chopped with other vegetables. 
This sauce forms the basis for the dish of scalloped cornmeal 
called Polenta Pasticciata. 



TOMATO SAUCE 
Salsa di PomidoTO 

Pellegrino Artusi, the inimitable author of that droll yet 
practical manual of cooking SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN 
AND THE ART OF EATING WELL (La Scienza in Cu- 
cina e I'Arte di mangiar bene) has the following to say about 
tomato sauce. 

"There was once a good old priest in a village of the Ro- 
magna who stuck his nose into everything ; in every family 
circle and in every domestic affair he wanted to have his fin- 
ger in the pie. Aside from this he was a kindly old party and 
and as his zeal was the source of more good than bad people 
let him go his way ; but the wiseacres dubbed him Don Pomi- 
doro (Sir Tomato) to indicate that tomatoes enter into every- 
thing; therefore a good tomato sauce is an invaluable aid in 
cooking. 

Chop fine together a quarter of an onion, a clove of garlic, 
a piece of celery as long as your finger, a few bay leaves and 
just parsley enough. Season with a little oil, salt and pepper, 
cut up seven or eight tomatoes and put everything over the 

23 



fire together. Stir it from time to time and when you see the 
juice condensing into a thin custard strain it through a sieve, 
and it is ready for use." 

This sauce serves many purposes. It is good on boiled 
meat; excellent to dress macaroni, spaghetti or other pastes 
which have been seasoned with butter and cheese, or on boiled 
rice seasoned in the same way. Mushrooms are a great addi- 
tion to it. 



WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED ASPARAGUS OR 

CAULIFLOWER 

Salsa Bianca 

1 tablespoon flour or cornstarch 
^ cup butter Salt and pepper 

Itablespoon vinegar %, cup water or soup stock 

Yolk of 1 egg 

Melt half the butter, add the flour and cook until it be- 
gins to brown. Add the water slowly, stirring meanwhile, the 
vinegar and the rest of the butter. Take from the fire and add 
the beaten egg yolk. This sauce should be smooth like a thin 
custard. 



PIQUANT SAUCE 
Salsa Piccante 

2 sardines or anchovies Lemon juice 

A bunch of parsley Vinegar 

% oi a. small onion Olive oil 

Garlic Salt, pepper 

Wash, skin and bone the anchovies. Chop the parsley 
very fine with the onion. Rub a bowl with the cut side of a 
clove of garlic. Put in the anchovies and rub to a paste. Add 
the parsley and onion, a tablespoon each of lemon juice and 
vinegar, % cup olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Stir the 
mixture until it is smooth and thick. Capers may be added by 
way of variety. This is delicious as a sauce for plain boiled 
meat or fish. 

Signorina Cornelia Cuniberti. 
24 



SALMON ALLA FIORENTINA 

2 lbs. fresh salmon 1 egg 

A sprig of parsley Flour rish 

2 cloves garlic Salt, pepper 

A bit of sage Mayonnaise 

A bay leaf Oil for frying 

Boil the piece of salmon for half an hour with the pars- 
ley, garlic, sage and bay leaf. Bone and roll into fillets ^4 
inch thick. If the fish has boiled very tender it may be nec- 
essary to tie the fillets in shape with string or strips of cheese 
cloth. Dip in beaten egg, then in flour, salt and pepper. Saute 
a delicate brown. Serve v^^ith oil mayonnaise. The white from 
the egg used in the mayonnaise may serve for dipping the fil- 
lets if only a small piece of salmon is cooked. 



CODFISH "STUFATO" 
Stufato di Baccala 

1 cup codfish, flaked or picked to pieces with a fork 
4 tablespoons cooking oil Tomato paste* 

Several sprigs parsley Pepper, hot water 

Freshen and soak the codfish in cold water, changing the 
water two or three times. Heat the oil, with the parsley finely 
chopped. Add the tomato paste, pepper and enough water to 
make sufficient liquid to cover the fish. Add the fish and let 
it simmer over a slow fire until it is done. 

Signonna Irene Merlani. 

*See Suggestions, page 5. 



CODFISH CROQUETTES 
Cotolette di Baccala 

1 lb. salt codfish 2 eggs 

2 anchovies* i^^ cup breadcrumbs 
A sprig of parsley 1 tablespoon butter 
Grated cheese Pepper 

25 



Flake the codfish and put it on the fire in cold water. 
When it has come to a boil remove from fire and drain. Clean 
the anchovies and chop them together with the codfish and 
parsley. Add enough hot water to the bread crumbs and but- 
ter to moisten thoroughly. Mix with the other ingredients. 
Form into croquettes and dip into egg and crumbs and fry in 
deep fat. 

Serve with tomato sauce or simply garnish with lemon. 
*See Suggestions, page 5. 



FRIED CHIPPED VEAL 
Frittura Piccata 

Veal 1 tablespoon vinegar 

Flour Chopped parsley 

Butter Salt and pepper 

Take any piece of veal and slice it as thin as possible in 
small irregular slices like chipped beef. Roll in flour, put 
butter in frying pan ; when hot add the vinegar and stir hard. 
Lay in the slices of veal and sprinkle salt, pepper and chopped 
parsley over it. Saute first on one side, then on the other, 
turning each piece separately. Serve hot with its own butter 
and vinegar sauce poured over it. 

Mme. VaresL 



SCALLOPED MEAT 
Piatto di Came Avanzata 
Any left over meat Butter or butter substitute 

Onions Sifted bread crumbs 

Tomatoes, fresh or canned Salt 
Flour Pepper 

Into the bottom of a baking dish put a layer of thinly 
sliced onion, salt, pepper, a sprinkling of flour and a few dots 
of butter, then a layer of the cooked meat sliced very thin, an- 
other layer of onion and seasoning, and then one of meat, 
moistening it occasionally with a tablespoon of soup stock or 
hot water in which a bouillon cube has been dissolved. Re- 
peat this until the dish is nearly full. Last put in a layer of 

26 



raw tomatoes (canned tomatoes may be made to serve the pur- 
pose) and cover the top with bread crumbs, salt, pepper and 
bits of butter. Bake in the oven for one-half hour. 

Signorina Irene Merlani. 



MEAT SOUFFLE 
Flam di Carne Avanzata 

1 cup cold boiled or roast meat chopped fine 
1 oz. butter 1 pint of milk 

1 tablespoon flour 2 eggs 

Grated cheese, to taste Salt, pepper 

Make the butter, flour and milk into a white sauce by 
melting the butter, cooking the flour in it until the mixture 
bubbles and begins to brown, then adding the milk and cook- 
ing until it is smooth. Let this cool. Brown the meat in a 
saucepan with a little fat or drippings, salt and pepper. Take 
it from the fire and add the white sauce and the eggs well 
beaten. Season with grated cheese, salt and pepper. Butter a 
mould and sprinkle it with bread crumbs, fill with the mixture 
and steam or bake as a custard for an hour. Serve with any 
good meat or tomato sauce. 

Signorina Irene Merlani. 



MEAT OMELETTE 
Polpettone 

Cold boiled meat Bread crumbs 

An egg Butter, hot water 

Chop or grind cold boiled meat and form into an oval 
cake after mixing it with enough slightly beaten egg and 
bread crumbs (soaked in hot water and seasoned with butter) 
to make it hold its shape. Saute on one side in a frying pan. 
To turn it use a plate or cover so as not to break it. Saute on 
the other side. Lift it from the pan and with the fat remain- 
ing in the pan make a gravy to pour over it, which may be en- 
riched by the addition of a beaten egg and a dash of lemon 
juice just as it is taken from the fire. 

A Polpettone from left over soup meat often forms the 

27 



second course to a meal, the first course of which has been the 
soup made from this meat with vegetables or macaroni cooked 
in it. 



STEW OF BEEF OR VEAL WITH MACARONI 
Stufato di Vitello con Maccheroni 

1% lbs. beef or veal suitable for stewing 
^ cup vegetable oil or shortening 

1 cup broth or sour milk Salt 

2 large onions Pepper 

Cut the meat into little pieces and season each piece with 
salt and pepper. Chop the onions very fine or put them 
through the meat grinder, and fry them brown in the fat. Put 
in the meat and let it cook until it has absorbed all the fat and 
is slightly browned. Add the broth or milk and let it cook 
over a moderate fire. 

As a vegetable with this stew serve maacaroni boiled, 
drained and seasoned with tomato sauce* and butter. 

Signorina Irene Merlani. 

*See page 5. 



PIGEONS IN CORNMEAL 
Piccioni con Polenta 

Pigeons Sage 

Butter Yellow cornmeal 

Chopped onion Salt, pepper 

Stock, or boiling water and bouillon cubes 

Make a stiff cornmeal mush, thoroughly cooked. Cut the 
pigeons in quarters or even smaller pieces. Brown them in 
butter with salt, pepper and a little chopped onion. Cover 
with stock, add a bit of sage and stew slowly for an hour and 
a half. If the birds are young less time will do. 

Line a round dish with the mush, hollowed out. Lay the 
pigeons with their sauce inside of this and serve hot. 

28 



SMOTHERED CHICKEN 
^ Stufato di Polio 

^A chicken (this is an excellent way to cook a tough fowl) 
j4 oz. fat, half butter and half lard, or any substitute 

1 cup tomatoes stewed down and put through a sieve 

1 carrot Boiling water 

1 onion 1 stalk celery 

Cut up the chicken, rub it with the lard and brown it in 
the other half of the fat. Add the strained tomato, then the 
finely chopped onion, finally the carrot and celery cut into 
small pieces, and season with salt and pepper. Let it simmer 
?slowly until perfectly tender, adding hot water enough to 
keep it moist, from time to time, as the strained tomato cooks 
away. 

Signorina Irene Merlani. 



CHICKEN ALLA CACCIATORA 
Polio alia Cacciatora 

A chicken Flour 

1 pint fresh or canned tomatoes 6 sweet green peppers 

^ lb. fat salt pork or bacon 2 or 3 medium sized onions 

Grind or chop the salt pork and put in a large frying pan 
with the onions sliced thin. Fry the onions slowly and care- 
fully until they are golden brown. Skim them out. Cut up 
the chicken, sprinkle the pieces with flour, salt and pepper, 
and saute in the fat which remains in the frying pan. When 
the chicken is brown add the tomatoes and green peppers and 
put back the onions. When the vegetables have cooked down 
to a thick gravy keep adding enough hot water to prevent 
their burning. Cover the pan tightly and simmer until the 
chicken is very tender. This an excellent way to cook tough 
chickens. Fowls which have been boiled may be cooked in 
this way, but of course young and tender chickens will have 
the finer flavor. 



29 



BOILED FOWL WITH RICE 
Lesso di Polio col Riso 

Yz lb. rice 1 egg 

A fowl suitable for boiling Butter 

Salt and pepper Grated cheese 

Cut up the fowl and boil until it is tender. Wash the rice 
and blanch it by letting it come to a boil and cook a few min- 
utes in salted water. Finish cooking it in the broth from the 
boiled fowl. Do not cook it too long or it will be mushy. Add 
the broth a little at a time to be sure the rice is not too wet 
when it is done. Season with cheese and butter and add the 
egg yolk to bind it just as it is taken from the fire. Serve as 
a border around the fowl. 

STUFFING FOR ROAST CHICKEN OR TURKEY 
Ripieno 

2 small link sausages 1 egg 

Giblets of the fowl A few dried mushrooms* 

1 cup dry breadcrumbs Nutmeg 

1 tablespoon drippings Very little salt and pepper 

8 or 10 large roasted chestnuts 

Brown the sausages and giblets in drippings. Add a cup 
of boiling water and simmer until cooked. Skim them from 
their broth and put the bread crumbs to soak in it. Skin the 
sausages and chop or grind them together with the giblets, 
chestnuts and the mushrooms which have been washed and 
soaked in warm water. Mix thoroughly with the bread 
crumbs. Add more bread crumbs or hot water if it is not the 
right consistency. Double the quantity for a turkey. This 
dressing is very nice sliced cold. 

*See Suggestions, page 5. 



CHOCOLATE PUDDING 
Budino di Cioccolata 

2 cups milk ^ cup sugar 

3 eggs 3 oz. ground macaroons 
lYz squares unsweetened chocolate 

Make a custard of the eggs, milk, sugar and chocolate. 

30 



3ook it in a double boiler until it thickens. Take from the 
ire and add the finely ground macaroons, stirring and beating 
:he mixture until it is smooth. Pour into a buttered mould 
ind chill thoroughly on the ice. 

Signorina Irene Merlani. 



ZABAIONE 

I wineglass Marsala or Madeira wine (^^ cup) 
I tablespoon sugar 2 eggs 

Beat the eggs, beat in the sugar, add the wine. Cook over 
I slow fire, beating constantly until the mixture begins to 
hicken. Take from the fire and continue to beat a moment so 
he mixture will not cook to the side of the hot vessel. It 
ihould be a smooth, frothy cream. It is eaten hot, poured 
)ver sponge cake or served in tall glasses. A scant teaspoon 
)f cinnamon may be added by way of variety. 

Pensione Santa Caterina, Siena. 

It is best to cook Zabaione in a double boiler or in a dish 
let into a larger one of boiling water, to prevent its curdling. 

Orange or other fruit juice may be substituted for the 
vine, but Marsala is the original and authentic ingredient. 
Aade with fruit juice it becomes an acceptable pudding sauce. 



MONT BLANC 
Monte Bianco, Dolce di Castagne 
. lb French or Italian chestnuts 
Vlilk, sugar, whipped cream, cinnamon 

Boil the chestnuts for two hours and then peel off the 
ihells and inner skins. Put them over the fire with a little 
nilk, and mash them to a paste, adding more milk if neces- 
;ary, to make them of about the consistency of mashed pota- 
;oes. Flavor with sugar and cinnamon. Pass them through 
I sieve or potato ricer to form a mound on the plate on which 
:he Mont Blanc is to be served. Decorate with a generous 
quantity of whipped cream just before serving. Vanilla or a 
ittle wine may be used for flavoring instead of cinnamon. 

Marietta leri 
31 



NUT CAKE 

^4 lb. rice flour 4 eggs 

6 oz. sugar Vanilla 

4 oz. butter 4 oz. almonds and filberts 

Blanch the almonds and filberts and dry them thoroughly. 
Grind them very fine and mix with the rice flour and two ta- 
blespoons of the sugar. Beat the eggs light and beat in the 
rest of the sugar. Pour the eggs into the other mixture and 
beat all very light. Add the melted butter and continue to 
beat. Pour into a buttered loaf-cake tin and bake in a moder- 
ate oven. 



PASTA MARGUERITA 

54 lb- potato flour 4 eggs 

54 lb. powdered sugar Lemon juice 

Beat the egg yolks thoroughly and beat in the sugar. 
Then add the flour and lemon juice and beat in all Yz hour. 
Beat the whites of the eggs dry and fold them into the rest. 
Butter a mould and sprinkle with powdered sugar. Pour into 
the mould and bake. When it is cool turn out of the mould 
and sprinkle with powdered sugar. 



BIGNE 

1 cup flour Yz cup butter 

1 cup water 3 eggs 

A little salt 

Boil the water and melt the butter in it. Salt it, add the 
flour and let it cook a little while. Cool and add the beaten 
eggs. Form this into 12 Eigne, (little cakes or cookies) and 
bake them in the oven. When they are baked split them open 
and fill with a custard flavored with vanilla and sprinkle them 
with powdered sugar. 

Signorina Irene Merlani. 



32 



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